Colour corrections are something we see a lot of, hair disasters are happening everywhere and we wanted to show you what it takes to fix something like this.
Colour disasters can occur for many reasons:
The main reason being a lack of technical knowledge of hair; hair texture; underlying pigment and choosing the right colours for this; using correct developers and lighteners for what you are trying to achieve.
Poor communication between the hairdresser and the client can also contribute to a less than desirable result.
Other reasons could include:
- – Lack of care/patients from the hairdresser
- – Incorrect application/technique
- – Rushed jobs (techniques like baby lights and balayage can take longer than your ‘traditional’ techniques.
Using colours that are too harsh and blowing out the pigment. Slow and steady wins the race for beautiful blondes/brondes & caramel tones. Poor colours are hidden by a toner.
Achieving the right colour for your client requires a number of things to be working in sync. The consultation must be thorough and precise, good communication between the stylist and the client is of utmost importance. The second thing is technical knowledge and product knowledge to achieve the desired result that has been laid out in the consultation process. As a professional, the stylist should have a clear idea on what you are able to achieve in regards to skin tone/hair texture and the desired result.
We have put together this video to showcase some problems that we see in the salon and just what it takes to fix them.
Our model Rowena is stunning but had a bad colour job. Her highlights we have done overseas, they were thick and chunky and yellow (underdeveloped) and had been hidden with a toner, which of course washed out in weeks to come and then she was left with these yellow, chunky stripes.
Rowena’s colour was also not flattering for her skin tone. It washed her out and had too much lightness through the top & too much depth through the ends which draw attention to her what would be beautiful hair in a negative way.
To combat this and the yellow highlights was a three-step process and a 5hour job.
Step 1: Balayage:
Starting from the underneath, softly balayage to create some lightness through the ends and balance out the colour using loreal free lights lighter and 40vol + Olaplex. With Olaplex, you need to bump up the developer.
Step 2: Feather Roots
Working up the head to the crown where the old highlights begin, I feathered out the roots with dia richesse 5g 6+ 20g 7.13 to give the natural depth back, blending back into the balayage through the ends.
Step 3: Babylights:
Babylights are super fine weaves that create a very natural ‘shimmery’ highlight through the hair. I have used a mixture of tones – one foil of 8.12+20vol (to create a caramel tone) and one with High-Lift Ash Violet + 40vol. skipping out the already lightened hair.
STEP 4: Root Stretch
Finishing off the back section by continuing to feather the root colour in between the babylights and then balayage some of those ends.
Always visualize where the colour is sitting on the hair – where it will be sitting when it’s dry.
The back section is finished and wrapped off before continuing (STEP 3 & 4 (root stretch) throughout the front section.
Below, are colour corrections and before & afters by Keira